In the name of "advanced" and the fact of "hooliganism", what is noble in the fashion circle?

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After the beginning of the year, various film festivals, fashion weeks and red carpets at home and abroad have never stopped. The fashion industry seems to be eager to release all the inspiration accumulated in the past two years.

Through the internet, everyone can enjoy different aesthetics all over the world, which was originally a good thing.

However, the fashion industry has always been dominated by the aesthetics of Europe and the United States, and they do not change the strong nature, and more and more like to kidnap the aesthetics of Asians with "advanced".

If you look closely, you will find that the fashion industry is all "hooligans" under the banner of "advanced".

Part 1: Binding, Discrimination and Solidification

Recently, Liu Wen, a supermodel, boarded a hot search with the entry of "wearing a chain dress with dozens of pounds", which triggered a hot discussion among netizens.

When I opened it, it turned out that Liu Wen was a catwalk for a big brand, and the skirt she was wearing was all made up of chains, weighing tens of pounds.

In the comment area, full of praise such as "beautiful", "Liu Wen’s business ability is excellent" and "too stable", small 8 didn’t know how to react for a moment.

To be fair, is this set of styling really beautiful?

As can be seen from the photos of the audience, Liu Wen’s two arms are congested because of the heavy skirt, and the skin color of the arms is in sharp contrast with the skin color of the neck, so people can only feel bound and can’t see where the beauty lies.

The first function of clothes is to wear, and the second is to look beautiful. This style does not occupy any point. Just because it is designed by foreign brands, it has become recognized as "beauty".

Europe and America are very experienced in forcibly defining aesthetics.

However, what Europe and America admire is "advanced". Models should lose their ribs and their cheeks should be sunken, which is in line with their aesthetics.

At the same time, they are still aggravating the stereotype of Asians: the eyes should be small, the cheekbones should be high, and the hair should be combed into a "big light", exposing the shortcomings of the head shape.

In China, Liu Wen looks like this: fresh, simple and intellectual.

But in Europe and America, she became old-fashioned, withered and emaciated.

He Sui, a supermodel known as "Fairy Girl", is glamorous and smart in China.

When she went abroad for a catwalk, she became indescribable ……

The so-called "senior face" is just a kidnapping of European and American aesthetics and Asian aesthetics.

Part 2: the "freedom" of going too far

While keen on labeling Asians, the fashion industry also likes to beautify their "freedom".

"Freedom to dress" is a very popular word in recent years. Indeed, everyone has the right to wear clothes he likes, but gradually, this "freedom" has gone beyond the fire.

Recently, Jin Jenny, a member of BLACKPINK, a top-notch Korean women’s group, is traveling in Europe and America.

As the top actress in Asia, she played a supporting role in American TV series, and the biggest scene was dancing the following dance.

Once the clip came out, it attracted netizens to vomit.

To put it bluntly, what’s the difference between this and playing hooligans in the street?

Don’t say that our thoughts are feudal, and they can’t accept the comments of Korean netizens.

As soon as the controversy subsided, Jenny Jin was scolded for a group of photos.

In the first photo, she is wearing a perspective coat, which seems to be tightly dressed. When you look closely, you can actually see everything in a glance.

In the second photo, she is wearing a plastic corset and tight underwear, which is neither beautiful nor comfortable, and I really don’t know what the meaning is.

If the domestic fashion circle had arranged for her to dress like this, the designers and dressers would have been scolded.

However, since this was written by European and American fashion circles, the related comments immediately became "Jennie is so beautiful" ……

At the previous Milan Fashion Week, the styles of Liu Wen and He Cong were also unacceptable.

Liu Wen appeared in the show wearing a black dress with straps, saying that the straps are not exaggerated at all. There are only two crossed straps as a cover for the whole upper body, which is quite like "the emperor’s new clothes".

Another supermodel, He Cong’s clothes, are even more outrageous. The place that can not be covered is covered tightly, and there is no cloth in the covered place, so it can only be replaced by hands.

It took thousands of years for human beings to evolve from smooth animals to ashamed homo sapiens, but now, the fashion circle has begun to advocate the trend of not wearing clothes, which is really hard to understand.

You can dress freely, but please don’t overdo it.

Part 3: Aesthetic "brainwashing" has achieved results.

Some people may say that the aesthetics of European and American fashion circles have anything to do with us, and they like whatever they like!

In fact, this has a lot to do with us. Under the "brainwashing" of aesthetics in Europe and America, there are also many examples of self-uglification in China.

The same is the advertisement for shooting beauty cosmetics. The effect of shooting abroad is like this: blonde, sweet and lovely.

And here we are, a model with a single eyelid, picking her eyes with her fingers as "squinting".

The same is the advertisement for shooting bags. The advertising effect abroad is natural, and the models are also carefully selected beauties.

In China, however, the advertisements have become ugly with dark style, squinting and high cheekbones.

What’s more sad is that it was taken by our own photographer.

In addition to industry photographers being brainwashed by abnormal aesthetics in Europe and America, even schools have been eroded by this trend.

Tsinghua Academy of Fine Arts, as one of the benchmarks of domestic academy of fine arts, launched a graduation show full of "squints".

To tell the truth, it is difficult for everyone to see so many people who conform to stereotypes in their lives, but on the show floor, such models are caught a lot.

Chinese culture has been passed down for thousands of years, and we have our own aesthetics.

What we are after is never skinny and squint with high cheekbones, but a well-proportioned figure, an oval face, big eyes and a high nose.

Aesthetics can be grounded, but not grounded.

Nowadays, more and more people oppose the so-called "advanced aesthetics" in Europe and America, and it is the most beautiful to stick to yourself!

Harvard experts recommend: the five best sports for the body.

To cultivate exercise habits, what kind of exercise do you think of first? Many people think of marathons, which are very popular in recent years, but I-Min Lee, a professor at Harvard Medical School, points out that long-distance running will cause a certain burden on the knee joint and digestive system, and long-term running may also lead to other problems.

Harvard Medical School once published a health report "Start Exercise", which recommended five kinds of exercises for people who want to exercise and hope to lose weight and gain muscle through exercise:

It is pointed out in the report that swimming is almost a perfect way to exercise, except for the ability toIn addition to exercising most muscles of the body, it can also improve the heart rate, benefit heart health and slow down brain aging.. In addition, the pressure on all joints of the body is very small when swimming, which is good for arthritis patients because the joints bear less weight.

Studies have shown that endorphin is a kind of hormone that can make people feel good and improve people’s mood, while swimming can effectively stimulate the secretion of endorphin and help people relieve the stress in daily life. At the same time, swimming can calm people down, eliminate external interference and become more focused, which naturally reduces people’s tension and depression.

Practicing Tai Ji Chuan requires high concentration and soft and slow movements, which can exercise the stability of the core muscles of the footwall; Standing on one foot and shifting the center of gravity can improve the balance ability; The semi-squatting posture can enhance the grip of leg muscles and soles.

Tai Ji Chuan is especially suitable for the elderly.. A study in the American New England Journal of Medicine pointed out that the elderly in Tai Ji Chuan who practice for one hour twice a week can reduce the risk of falling by 58% as long as they persist for half a year.

I-Min Lee said: Balance is an important guarantee for good health, but many people’s sense of balance deteriorates as they get older. Therefore, Tai Ji Chuan is particularly beneficial to the elderly.

Strength training is also called weight-bearing exercise and resistance exercise. People usually think that it is a physical exercise. In fact, it is harmful to the overall health, such asIncrease strength, improve mood and protect heart health.And so on have a very positive role and influence. Strength exercises include sit-ups, weightlifting, pull-ups and push-ups.

Chris Jordan, a sports physiologist, suggested that healthy adults should have regular resistance and strength training, and HIIT is a good choice.

HIIT sports include push-ups, squats, squats and other strength training, and every movement is using the specific muscle mass of the body. A person whose muscle tissue is not too outstanding will get a significant increase in muscle mass after a period of HIIT training. HIIT is most suitable for people who are young and have a certain sports history, and has high requirements for physical fitness. People who have experienced HIIT sports will feel out of breath and thirsty. Ordinary people should do what they can.

Walking may sound trivial, but it is a powerful "medicine". Many studies have shown that even walking at a moderate or leisurely speed for at least 30 minutes willGood for the brain and the body..

A study found that adults aged 60-88 walked for 30 minutes four times a week, and after 12 weeks, the connectivity of the brain region seemed to be enhanced, and the weakening of connectivity in this region was related to memory loss.

In addition, a preliminary study on patients with severe depression found that walking on a treadmill for 30 minutes for 10 consecutive days can effectively reduce the degree of depression. If you haven’t formed the habit of regular exercise at present, the medical team of Harvard University suggests that you can start by walking.

Many people think that only women need to do Kegel exercise, but in fact,Both men and women need to do this sport.. This exercise was put forward by American doctor arnold kegel in 1948. In daily work, Dr. Kaigl found that the problem of postpartum female urinary incontinence can be effectively alleviated by consciously contracting and relaxing the muscles near the urethra and anus. So the initial function of Kegel exercise is to treat postpartum female urinary incontinence.

Later, after gradual improvement, it has the current function:Prevent male and female urinary incontinence, female pelvic organ prolapse (uterus, vagina, bladder, rectum), treat male prostate problems, and improve the quality of sexual life..

The correct way of Kegel exercise includes tightening the micturition muscles (that is, holding the urine), keeping the contraction for 2 ~ 3 seconds, then releasing and repeating for 10 times. In order to get the best effect, it is recommended to do it 4 ~ 5 times a day.

Original article, please do not reprint without permission.

Author: Wuxiang | Editor: Da V

Article source: November 2020 issue of Medical and Food Reference magazine

Vogue

When more and more unconventional young people emerge in the streets and lanes, proudly parading through the city with carefully highlighted blue and green hairstyles; When Ma Baoguo’s Ma Jia Tai Ji Chuan spread all over the country like a clown; When a thunder resounds through the north and south of the river; When the models on the runway are wearing clothes that are close to nothing … People are amazed: fashion has appeared.

So there was this kind of report: "Shocked! There are really young people who are not fashionable! ""Still watching fake fashion collocation? No, it’s not from China! "….. Exaggerated dazzling modelling, artificial offensive personality, turn praise into derogatory words, these people often self-vulgar, self-proclaimed stand out from the crowd. Some people have questioned whether fashion means not talking about people, and wearing strange clothes has gradually begun to realize that this is not real fashion, and the fashion of this era seems to have slowly gone bad.

So, what is fashion? The dictionary defines it like this: the fashion at that time, the fashionable fashion. Nowadays, fashion is more like a benchmark, and it is the yardstick to judge whether a person is fashionable or not. What is popular is the trend. Once you fall behind this trend, congratulations, you will be given a stubborn title. In order not to be ridiculed for being old-fashioned, young people always stare at entertainment news, trying to find every little detail that can prove their advanced nature and make it carry forward.

For example, the original meaning of "ox and horse" refers to people who are willing to contribute and work hard, but the popular figure "knife elder brother" refers to it as the title of black powder, which seriously deviates from the original intention. So there was such a scene on campus: "Hey! What kind of cow and horse are you? " "Strange, isn’t cow and horse an adjective?" "This all don’t know? Forget it, there is no topic to talk about. " The person who knows left, and the person who doesn’t know immediately checked his mobile phone, suddenly realized, and immediately asked the next person: Hello! What are you? "Gradually became a bad fashion.

There are not only words, but also countless examples.

Do whatever is popular. People don’t seem to understand that this can only be called blindly following the trend and shouting loudly about their own fashion in life. So life is eroded by these so-called nouns. Fashion, in the eyes of many people, is just synonymous with the trend of the times.

But in fact, is fashion just such a superficial pursuit? Such a fashion way has a glamorous material appearance, but does it lack a deeper connotation pursuit?

There is nothing wrong with fashion, but blindly following the so-called trend vulgarizes the word fashion.

In blind pursuit, some people find the satisfaction of keeping pace with the times, but lose their own characteristics and personality. Do those unconventional shapes really suit me? Are unknown so’s derogatory words really beneficial to interpersonal communication? Did we choose fashion, or did fashion enslave us? Is this pursuit because fashion shows the temperament of the self, or just to prove that the self is fashionable? Also keep up with the trend, and then satisfy the psychological vanity?

What is fashion? I think the innovation of Chinese traditional culture is one kind.

You see, the spring flowers and the autumn moon jointly interpret the Xinxiang poems and songs of classical culture, embellishing the vicissitudes of Chinese bronze together, implying the different sounds of ancient feet and silk and bamboo, and the significance of Fengming’s welcome music. Modern people combine ancient poetry culture with popular songs, and it is easy to set off an antique fever. This kind of fashion can not only make people appreciate the golden horse in the long river of history, but also be affectionate with their children, and can better match the unique connotation of the times and bloom an attractive fragrance alone.

Fashion is still around us. Look at the green lifestyle of low-carbon people to protect the earth; Look at the travel modes chosen by carpoolers in order to save money, time and resources; Look at those people who wear chic and elegant clothes. They don’t have the exaggerated shapes needed to choose the trend, but who can say that this is not a fashion? This kind of fashion is not blindly following the trend, nor is it just the pursuit of material things. This kind of fashion is based on its full understanding of the outside world. Don’t choose the most fashionable, just choose the most suitable.

Fashion is still around us. Look at the green lifestyle of low-carbon people to protect the earth; Look at the travel modes chosen by carpoolers in order to save money, time and resources; Look at those people who wear chic and elegant clothes. They don’t have the exaggerated shapes needed to choose the trend, but who can say that this is not a fashion? This kind of fashion is not blindly following the trend, nor is it just the pursuit of material things. This kind of fashion is based on its full understanding of the outside world. Don’t choose the most fashionable, just choose the most suitable.

This is the connotation of fashion, and the real fashion should be a fashion with such connotation, with knowledge and knowledge, rather than just advocating and imitating the trend.

Reading | Fast Fashion

The emergence and disappearance of tidal current is usually described as the result of cultural change, but cultural change is slow because it is based on stable social norms. The trend, on the other hand, is changing faster and faster, so that people can only run after it in the past 20 years. This new phenomenon-the production and promotion of a large number of cheap disposable clothes is called "fast fashion". The change of fashion is neither cultural nor unforeseeable, and it is not an organic phenomenon, but an act carefully designed to stimulate sales.

Traditionally, the fashion industry has been replaced according to the cycle of "eight seasons": spring, summer I, summer II, autumn, autumn and winter, winter I, winter II and holidays. But now, customers who are at the forefront of the trend can pay attention to 24 different new seasons, such as back-to-school season, dance season and even wedding season. Among them, there are not only basic items that are regarded as necessities, but also luxury items that show superior social status. Although these new seasons are of different types, the existence time of each trend is getting shorter and shorter, and the gap between necessities and luxury goods is getting smaller and smaller. Historically, price, brand and quality have distinguished low-end products for the mass market from high-end products. Today, the difference in quality between products priced at 10 euros and 200 euros may be imperceptible. The key to high sales is price: if you want to sell more, you must sell it cheaply. This is why cheap goods and disposable goods have replaced durable products.

In order to get a lower price, it is necessary to reduce the production cost. This will bring many consequences: industrial pollution, social problems, damage to human health … The exploitation of labor by industrial production will aggravate global poverty, promote the production of a large number of industrial wastes, and hinder the improvement of wages in developing countries. Because the purpose of industrial production is to promote people’s excessive consumption of cheap, disposable clothes. Price is a core factor, which determines whether customers are willing to continue to consume.

European companies such as ZARA and H&M dominate this fast fashion industry. They are famous for producing goods that are affordable but look expensive. The success of this business model has prompted all retailers to join the Nuggets. Even some traditional luxury brands, such as Versace, now rely on this sales strategy. Low prices expand the customer base and make them feel that they have a luxury. This pursuit has completely changed the clothing industry. The strategy of price positioning must first determine whether consumers will spend 10 euros, 200 euros or something in between for a piece of clothing. The ability of the manufacturer to create and promote the brand image, value and prestige is the driving force of this game. Innovation and brand reputation enable them to set higher prices, but when the trend fades, the prices will fall, and these clothes will be replaced by other styles … Therefore, consumers who are most sensitive to fashion will pay high prices to gain the advantage of leading the trend, while others are waiting for affordable prices.

In view of technological innovation and industrial innovation, retailers can meet the needs of fashion hipsters at very low prices, which has given birth to a new competition and reclassified the market. In fact, when the variable price is removed from the equation to distinguish market segments, retailers will readjust their strategies and seek the lowest price for the highest-end products. Historically, consumers have two markets to choose from when buying goods, namely mass market and luxury market. But now they have more intermediate options. The "first-line big-name" market-the sales price of clothing, accessories and cosmetics is second only to luxury brands, and the "light luxury" market-is slightly more expensive than the popular brands, but it is close to the products of luxury brands in terms of taste, style and even quality. The development of fashion industry has also promoted the transformation of clothing function, which was once the symbol of social status, taste, general cultural awareness and unique personality. With the emergence of these new categories, the original logo has gradually disappeared.

The real success of fast fashion lies neither in advanced technology nor in the proximity of factories, but in unprecedented sales. The reason why prices can keep falling is that consumers will buy new clothes as soon as they are introduced. On average, customers go to the store 17 times a year. In ZARA, the unsold inventory is less than 10%, while in other brands, the proportion is 17% to 20%. The production cycle no longer follows the law of seasonal purchase, but must satisfy people’s continuous consumption.

Fast fashion stores have their own marketing strategies to make customers buy more clothes, even if their closets are already filled with similar styles of clothes. Fast-selling brands rarely replenish the most popular goods in order to attract consumers into the store with "new products" that are constantly on the shelves. What customers buy is scarcity. In fact, there is nothing innovative about a pair of blue jeans. The combination of low price and treasure hunting in shops is only to persuade and "create desire". There is no limit to how many clothes a person can buy, especially cheap clothes.

(This article is excerpted from The Evil of Fashion: Creation, Production and Manipulation, by Audrey Mier, translated by Qu Xiaorui, and published by Peking University Publishing House.)

Author: [France] Audrey Mier

Editor: Yuan Yilu