In the name of "advanced" and the fact of "hooliganism", what is noble in the fashion circle?

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After the beginning of the year, various film festivals, fashion weeks and red carpets at home and abroad have never stopped. The fashion industry seems to be eager to release all the inspiration accumulated in the past two years.

Through the internet, everyone can enjoy different aesthetics all over the world, which was originally a good thing.

However, the fashion industry has always been dominated by the aesthetics of Europe and the United States, and they do not change the strong nature, and more and more like to kidnap the aesthetics of Asians with "advanced".

If you look closely, you will find that the fashion industry is all "hooligans" under the banner of "advanced".

Part 1: Binding, Discrimination and Solidification

Recently, Liu Wen, a supermodel, boarded a hot search with the entry of "wearing a chain dress with dozens of pounds", which triggered a hot discussion among netizens.

When I opened it, it turned out that Liu Wen was a catwalk for a big brand, and the skirt she was wearing was all made up of chains, weighing tens of pounds.

In the comment area, full of praise such as "beautiful", "Liu Wen’s business ability is excellent" and "too stable", small 8 didn’t know how to react for a moment.

To be fair, is this set of styling really beautiful?

As can be seen from the photos of the audience, Liu Wen’s two arms are congested because of the heavy skirt, and the skin color of the arms is in sharp contrast with the skin color of the neck, so people can only feel bound and can’t see where the beauty lies.

The first function of clothes is to wear, and the second is to look beautiful. This style does not occupy any point. Just because it is designed by foreign brands, it has become recognized as "beauty".

Europe and America are very experienced in forcibly defining aesthetics.

However, what Europe and America admire is "advanced". Models should lose their ribs and their cheeks should be sunken, which is in line with their aesthetics.

At the same time, they are still aggravating the stereotype of Asians: the eyes should be small, the cheekbones should be high, and the hair should be combed into a "big light", exposing the shortcomings of the head shape.

In China, Liu Wen looks like this: fresh, simple and intellectual.

But in Europe and America, she became old-fashioned, withered and emaciated.

He Sui, a supermodel known as "Fairy Girl", is glamorous and smart in China.

When she went abroad for a catwalk, she became indescribable ……

The so-called "senior face" is just a kidnapping of European and American aesthetics and Asian aesthetics.

Part 2: the "freedom" of going too far

While keen on labeling Asians, the fashion industry also likes to beautify their "freedom".

"Freedom to dress" is a very popular word in recent years. Indeed, everyone has the right to wear clothes he likes, but gradually, this "freedom" has gone beyond the fire.

Recently, Jin Jenny, a member of BLACKPINK, a top-notch Korean women’s group, is traveling in Europe and America.

As the top actress in Asia, she played a supporting role in American TV series, and the biggest scene was dancing the following dance.

Once the clip came out, it attracted netizens to vomit.

To put it bluntly, what’s the difference between this and playing hooligans in the street?

Don’t say that our thoughts are feudal, and they can’t accept the comments of Korean netizens.

As soon as the controversy subsided, Jenny Jin was scolded for a group of photos.

In the first photo, she is wearing a perspective coat, which seems to be tightly dressed. When you look closely, you can actually see everything in a glance.

In the second photo, she is wearing a plastic corset and tight underwear, which is neither beautiful nor comfortable, and I really don’t know what the meaning is.

If the domestic fashion circle had arranged for her to dress like this, the designers and dressers would have been scolded.

However, since this was written by European and American fashion circles, the related comments immediately became "Jennie is so beautiful" ……

At the previous Milan Fashion Week, the styles of Liu Wen and He Cong were also unacceptable.

Liu Wen appeared in the show wearing a black dress with straps, saying that the straps are not exaggerated at all. There are only two crossed straps as a cover for the whole upper body, which is quite like "the emperor’s new clothes".

Another supermodel, He Cong’s clothes, are even more outrageous. The place that can not be covered is covered tightly, and there is no cloth in the covered place, so it can only be replaced by hands.

It took thousands of years for human beings to evolve from smooth animals to ashamed homo sapiens, but now, the fashion circle has begun to advocate the trend of not wearing clothes, which is really hard to understand.

You can dress freely, but please don’t overdo it.

Part 3: Aesthetic "brainwashing" has achieved results.

Some people may say that the aesthetics of European and American fashion circles have anything to do with us, and they like whatever they like!

In fact, this has a lot to do with us. Under the "brainwashing" of aesthetics in Europe and America, there are also many examples of self-uglification in China.

The same is the advertisement for shooting beauty cosmetics. The effect of shooting abroad is like this: blonde, sweet and lovely.

And here we are, a model with a single eyelid, picking her eyes with her fingers as "squinting".

The same is the advertisement for shooting bags. The advertising effect abroad is natural, and the models are also carefully selected beauties.

In China, however, the advertisements have become ugly with dark style, squinting and high cheekbones.

What’s more sad is that it was taken by our own photographer.

In addition to industry photographers being brainwashed by abnormal aesthetics in Europe and America, even schools have been eroded by this trend.

Tsinghua Academy of Fine Arts, as one of the benchmarks of domestic academy of fine arts, launched a graduation show full of "squints".

To tell the truth, it is difficult for everyone to see so many people who conform to stereotypes in their lives, but on the show floor, such models are caught a lot.

Chinese culture has been passed down for thousands of years, and we have our own aesthetics.

What we are after is never skinny and squint with high cheekbones, but a well-proportioned figure, an oval face, big eyes and a high nose.

Aesthetics can be grounded, but not grounded.

Nowadays, more and more people oppose the so-called "advanced aesthetics" in Europe and America, and it is the most beautiful to stick to yourself!

Why are domestic cars getting bigger and bigger now? Brother Miao will tell you the reason. Do you like big cars or small cars?

Have you noticed that our domestic cars, especially new energy vehicles, are getting bigger and bigger no matter whether they are hybrid or pure electric? If you ask M7, the conductor is more than 5 meters long. To tell the truth, this car is made of five seats, and the space is really spacious.

Why were there not so many big cars in the past, but now there are more and more big cars? Brother Miao, talk about some of my understanding.

First of all, we need to buy a car. In recent years, in fact, we need to buy a car. At first, many friends chose SUV, which has a high body and then a high interior.

Second, the car appearsatmosphereIn addition, many of our friends buy cars, and there may be a car at home.

A car should not only take care of my daily commute, but also take care of my family’s trip, and sometimes I go back to my hometown occasionally, drag something or go out to go on road trip. After all, our country is vast and has such a big territory.

Therefore, an SUV can solve many problems at this time, but a car can’t solve the SUV problem, so everyone may give priority to a larger SUV.

Moreover, from another psychological point of view, when the car is big, it looks atmospheric. For example, now, when the car is parked with my old corolla, is it like an elder brother and a younger brother?

The second reason, it is very important.Energy consumption.If it’s a pure fuel car, like my old buddy, the fuel consumption of 1.8 is actually not delicate after a long time.

You think, if an SUV with a curb weight of more than two tons and a curb weight of more than five meters is a pure fuel vehicle, then its displacement is basically at least 2.0T, and its fuel consumption of 2.0T is definitely not low. It is possible that you will have to reach 3.0 to drive better.

At this time, if you drive in the city, it is entirely possible that you will consume 15 or 16 petrol per 100 kilometers.

But now that there is new energy, after it is added with electricity, it is like a car as big as the M7. If you are at ordinary times, it is basically enough to force pure electricity.

Because of its pure battery life, if I run in the city, I can basically run to 170 or 80 kilometers. There are more than 100 kilometers of high speed, and even when you are short of electricity, you can directly start burning oil, whichThe overall fuel consumption is also relatively low.

Plus, if you buy it, many people may have a fixed parking space at home and be able to install a charging pile.

At this time, like Changsha, it charges a little more than 5 cents at night, less than 5 cents, and it is a little more than 6 cents at noon and a little more than 7 cents at peak.

This electricity price, according to its power consumption of 100 kilometers, even if you have about 20, you can basically pay for it.ignoreYes.

Secondly, it is in the feed state, and its fuel consumption is also considerable. When I run at high speed, it is less than 8 oils. If I run downtown, it is more economical than high-speed fuel consumption.

So, in recent years, why have our own brands of cars become bigger and bigger, including new energy vehicles, including MPV, including Tengshi D9, which sells so well?

In fact, the core reason, one is the cost of its car.Significantly reduced,Plus, if you buy it now, you can save the purchase tax, and after you bring electricity to the car later, it will be a lot.The car scene will become richer..

This is why I have been driving for a while and asked about M7. At present, the cars with domestic new energy sources are getting bigger and bigger, with a 5-meter body and a 3-meter wheelbase. In the back seat, you can cross your legs completely, so Brother Miao asks everyone, do you like big cars or small cars?

How many unreasonable places are there in the female body?

From forest apes to modern humans

Humans have experienced tens of millions of years of evolution.

In this process

We learned to walk upright and use tools.

Has produced the emotion, the thinking consciousness

Great changes have taken place in the body.

it is a pity that

Although after tens of millions of years of evolution,

Our bodies still have some. …

Where "it doesn’t seem reasonable"

Let’s take a look at it with you today.

The female body

How many unreasonable places are there?

Private part

First of all, let’s talk about the biggest difference between women and men-reproductive system. As one of the most important parts of the human body, the reproductive system, which bears the heavy responsibility of racial reproduction, has a "huge" defect in design-it is too close to the urinary system and excretory system.

Women’s reproductive tract mouth, urethral mouth and anus are too close. Under the attack of these two, various problems follow.

It is inevitable that there will be some "dirty things" in excreta that are not conducive to health. Because they are too close, these "dirty things" may run to the reproductive system with a little carelessness, causing inflammation, mold infection and other diseases.

Even if you pay great attention to personal hygiene, it is difficult to keep this area dry and fresh all the time. The humid environment will continue to irritate the skin and cause folliculitis.

In addition, the female reproductive system has also designed an unreasonable "cooling mechanism"-menstruation stage.

Regular visits by "big aunt" will not only bring a lot of inconvenience in life, but also bring physical pain and emotional fluctuations.

Pelvis

After talking about the private parts, let’s turn our eyes to the inside of the body and talk about the pelvis.

In order to give birth smoothly, women’s pelvis is wider than men’s, and such "differential treatment" brings many "congenital disadvantages" to girls.

Because the pelvis is narrower, boys can have a "good-looking" ass without effort. And girls’ hips are wide and flat.

The wider pelvis also leads to a larger pelvic inclination, a forward posture and an X-leg problem.

Therefore, women are more vulnerable to pelvic pain, and at the same time, the probability of low back pain and other problems is higher than that of men.

Accessory milk

Next, let’s move our eyes upward-vice breasts.

During fetal development, if the redundant breast tissue is not completely degraded, this embarrassing thing will appear. Although complementary breasts will not pose a threat to women’s health, they will bring some inconvenience and trouble to women.

First of all, the first question is-not good-looking. Vice breasts usually grow near women’s armpits. In summer, these two bulging "fat" have become the heart disease of many girls.

If it’s just "two lumps of meat", it’s tolerable. I’m afraid that the pair of breasts is the version with nipples, which is embarrassing to by going up one flight of stairs.

corpus luteum

The corpus luteum may be unfamiliar to men. Let me introduce it to you first. The corpus luteum of women is a temporary gland in the ovary, which will be formed after ovulation.

Unlike "useless auxiliary milk", Huang will secrete hormones such as progesterone, which can help the endometrium maintain a stable state and promote the full development of the chest.

But it has a fatal bug-it will break! And it is easy to break!

Slightly violent jumping, running, or too hard when going to the toilet may cause corpus luteum rupture. If the pressure in the yellow body is too great and no external force is needed, it will even break for you automatically.

After corpus luteum rupture, abdominal pain will be severe, and if internal bleeding is serious, there may even be shock.

Prostaglandins and androgens

Yes, women also secrete prostaglandins and androgens. The former can regulate menstrual cycle and fertility, while the latter can affect women’s sexual desire and reproductive health.

However, if these two hormones are secreted too much, they will have adverse effects on girls’ health.

Excessive secretion of prostaglandin will amplify girls’ sensitivity to pain, while excessive secretion of androgen will lead to more body hair and irregular menstruation.

The good news is.

Some researchers have found that

Over the past 40 thousand years

The speed of human evolution is accelerating.

Especially in the last 5000 years.

The speed of human evolution is 100 times faster than before.

Over time.

These "unreasonable" places.

Maybe through evolution.

Become more reasonable

But everyone here

I don’t think I can witness it in person

Doctor, for a minute, the posture keeps rising.

End of this period

The three cars with the best reputation in the history of China automobile have strong power and high grade, and have not been overhauled after driving for 300,000 kilometers.

China automobile market has always been concerned, and consumers pay more and more attention to many factors such as performance, appearance and configuration. Among many models, several models with the best reputation have attracted much attention. They are Cadillac CT5, Toyota Highlander and Volvo S60. These three models have outstanding performance in appearance design, configuration technology and safety performance, and become the best representative of China automobile market.

Cadillac CT5: the representative of fashion and luxury

Cadillac CT5 has always attracted much attention for its luxurious and fashionable appearance. The body lines are smooth, and the design incorporates many fashion elements, making the overall shape highly recognizable. The luxurious design makes it unique in the minds of consumers.

In terms of configuration, the CT5 is a car with a sense of technology. Advanced driver assistance system, advanced entertainment system and humanized comfortable configuration all provide drivers with first-class driving experience. Cadillac CT5 is not only a car, but also a perfect combination of luxury and technology.

Toyota Highlander: practicality and luxury coexist

Toyota Highlander has always been known for its sedate and luxurious design.

As a medium and large SUV, it not only shows a sense of advanced appearance, but also has a solid texture in the interior materials. Highlander’s interior space design is spacious and practical, with rich storage space and flexible seat layout, so that drivers and passengers can be satisfied in comfort and practicality. In terms of configuration, advanced intelligent driver assistance system and efficient fuel economy make Toyota Highlander the first choice for family cars.

It achieves a perfect balance between practicality and luxury.

Volvo S60: Unique and Exquisite Nordic Style

As a luxury car from northern Europe, Volvo S60 is highly praised for its unique and exquisite appearance and high-level safety performance.

The design of S60 is full of Nordic simplicity and exquisiteness, and every detail has been carefully carved. The car is luxurious and comfortable, and the use of advanced materials shows the manufacturer’s ultimate pursuit of quality. In terms of configuration, Volvo has always been synonymous with safety performance, and S60 has performed well in active safety and pass ivo safety.

Choosing Volvo S60 is not only a kind of driving, but also a symbol of taste.

Diversified development of China automobile market

It is no accident that these three models have the best reputation. They have outstanding performances in different aspects and represent the diversified development trend of China automobile market. With the increasing diversification of consumer demand, car companies are no longer just pursuing a single feature, but comprehensively improving their sense of luxury, practicality and safety performance.

Diversified trend of consumer choice

The factors that consumers consider when buying a car are gradually diversified. No longer just pursue the brand or appearance, but pay more attention to the actual performance of the vehicle in daily use. This also makes car companies pay more attention to details in R&D and design to meet the needs of different consumers.

The models with the best reputation can often be balanced in many aspects, which is in line with the diversified choice trend of contemporary consumers.

The integration of technology and luxury

Among these three models, the upgrade of technology configuration has become a highlight to attract consumers. With the continuous improvement of technology configuration such as intelligent driving assistance system and advanced entertainment system, driving becomes more convenient and safe.

Luxury models no longer just stay in the design, but also make great efforts to create a sense of technology in the car to meet the pursuit of modern consumers for a sense of technology.

Prospect of future development trend

With the continuous development of new energy and intelligent technology, the future automobile market will usher in more innovations and changes.

The application of new materials and technologies will further improve the overall performance of automobiles and meet consumers’ demands for environmental protection and intelligence. Cars are no longer just means of transportation, but also the integration of technology and luxury, representing the development trend of the times.

summary

Among the three cars with the best reputation in China automobile market, Cadillac CT5, Toyota Highlander and Volvo S60 have won the favor of consumers with their unique design and excellent performance respectively.

These three models not only have outstanding performance in appearance, but also have outstanding performance in configuration, practicality and safety performance. In the future, with the continuous development of science and technology and the changing needs of consumers, the automobile market will usher in more diversified choices and provide consumers with a richer car buying experience.

Reading | Fast Fashion

The emergence and disappearance of tidal current is usually described as the result of cultural change, but cultural change is slow because it is based on stable social norms. The trend, on the other hand, is changing faster and faster, so that people can only run after it in the past 20 years. This new phenomenon-the production and promotion of a large number of cheap disposable clothes is called "fast fashion". The change of fashion is neither cultural nor unforeseeable, and it is not an organic phenomenon, but an act carefully designed to stimulate sales.

Traditionally, the fashion industry has been replaced according to the cycle of "eight seasons": spring, summer I, summer II, autumn, autumn and winter, winter I, winter II and holidays. But now, customers who are at the forefront of the trend can pay attention to 24 different new seasons, such as back-to-school season, dance season and even wedding season. Among them, there are not only basic items that are regarded as necessities, but also luxury items that show superior social status. Although these new seasons are of different types, the existence time of each trend is getting shorter and shorter, and the gap between necessities and luxury goods is getting smaller and smaller. Historically, price, brand and quality have distinguished low-end products for the mass market from high-end products. Today, the difference in quality between products priced at 10 euros and 200 euros may be imperceptible. The key to high sales is price: if you want to sell more, you must sell it cheaply. This is why cheap goods and disposable goods have replaced durable products.

In order to get a lower price, it is necessary to reduce the production cost. This will bring many consequences: industrial pollution, social problems, damage to human health … The exploitation of labor by industrial production will aggravate global poverty, promote the production of a large number of industrial wastes, and hinder the improvement of wages in developing countries. Because the purpose of industrial production is to promote people’s excessive consumption of cheap, disposable clothes. Price is a core factor, which determines whether customers are willing to continue to consume.

European companies such as ZARA and H&M dominate this fast fashion industry. They are famous for producing goods that are affordable but look expensive. The success of this business model has prompted all retailers to join the Nuggets. Even some traditional luxury brands, such as Versace, now rely on this sales strategy. Low prices expand the customer base and make them feel that they have a luxury. This pursuit has completely changed the clothing industry. The strategy of price positioning must first determine whether consumers will spend 10 euros, 200 euros or something in between for a piece of clothing. The ability of the manufacturer to create and promote the brand image, value and prestige is the driving force of this game. Innovation and brand reputation enable them to set higher prices, but when the trend fades, the prices will fall, and these clothes will be replaced by other styles … Therefore, consumers who are most sensitive to fashion will pay high prices to gain the advantage of leading the trend, while others are waiting for affordable prices.

In view of technological innovation and industrial innovation, retailers can meet the needs of fashion hipsters at very low prices, which has given birth to a new competition and reclassified the market. In fact, when the variable price is removed from the equation to distinguish market segments, retailers will readjust their strategies and seek the lowest price for the highest-end products. Historically, consumers have two markets to choose from when buying goods, namely mass market and luxury market. But now they have more intermediate options. The "first-line big-name" market-the sales price of clothing, accessories and cosmetics is second only to luxury brands, and the "light luxury" market-is slightly more expensive than the popular brands, but it is close to the products of luxury brands in terms of taste, style and even quality. The development of fashion industry has also promoted the transformation of clothing function, which was once the symbol of social status, taste, general cultural awareness and unique personality. With the emergence of these new categories, the original logo has gradually disappeared.

The real success of fast fashion lies neither in advanced technology nor in the proximity of factories, but in unprecedented sales. The reason why prices can keep falling is that consumers will buy new clothes as soon as they are introduced. On average, customers go to the store 17 times a year. In ZARA, the unsold inventory is less than 10%, while in other brands, the proportion is 17% to 20%. The production cycle no longer follows the law of seasonal purchase, but must satisfy people’s continuous consumption.

Fast fashion stores have their own marketing strategies to make customers buy more clothes, even if their closets are already filled with similar styles of clothes. Fast-selling brands rarely replenish the most popular goods in order to attract consumers into the store with "new products" that are constantly on the shelves. What customers buy is scarcity. In fact, there is nothing innovative about a pair of blue jeans. The combination of low price and treasure hunting in shops is only to persuade and "create desire". There is no limit to how many clothes a person can buy, especially cheap clothes.

(This article is excerpted from The Evil of Fashion: Creation, Production and Manipulation, by Audrey Mier, translated by Qu Xiaorui, and published by Peking University Publishing House.)

Author: [France] Audrey Mier

Editor: Yuan Yilu